3 Nights in the Hidden Paradise of Dzongu
The Proposition
As a tour operator and guide, my job is to find and recommend travel ideas to my guests who want to travel to exotic destinations in the Himalayas. In my case, it is often serendipitous. I plan tours because that is what I do best, and as a resident of the Himalayas, I understand the region well. In many cases, I have promoted places without doing a physical recce, and have accompanied the guests on the first visits, always discovering and learning on my own.
When Kurt wrote to me about planning a tour to Darjeeling and Sikkim, through our common friends, Nadine and Norbu, both of us engaged in intensive email communications to frame the tour to the best possible form. The three-week travel duration meant we could work out an extensive itinerary. After finishing the popular Darjeeling and Sikkim program, there were still some days left, so I suggested visiting Dzongu, which Kurt immediately responded to with much enthusiasm. It was a go.
The Process
Dzongu had been on my mind lately. Therefore, this positive reply from Kurt was, indeed, serendipitous, to say the least. I started to scout for homestays in Dzongu, getting recommendations from my friends, and collating them on the internet, with pictures and reviews. I finally zeroed in on the Lepcha Homestay in Lingthem village. I called Kachyo Lepcha, the owner of the homestay, whom I later came to know is better known as Dr Kachyo Lepcha, having completed his PhD thesis in The Teesta Hydroelectric Project: A historical analysis of the protest movements in North Sikkim.
From somewhat abrupt mobile connectivity and a barrage of questions from my side, Kachyo was patient enough to answer them all. Equipped with the local information from him, I confidently charted out the program for Kurt and Monica.
Entering the Hidden Paradise
After about eleven days en route to Darjeeling and West Sikkim, we entered Dzongu via the Sankalang checkpoint, having procured the permit from Mangan, after an awful experience that I shall choose not to elaborate on at the moment. We arrived at Lepcha Homestay in Lingthem village around 10 AM in the morning. Mingdup Lepcha, the younger brother of Kachyo, a lean and fit Lepcha man, greeted us on the roadside above the homestay, picked up Kurt and Monica’s heavy luggage like it was a sack of puffed rice, and led us to the rooms by the descending steps.
While Kurt and Monica appeared happy, and at ease, my first impression of the property was that it looked like an average homestay. A small two-room structure, a big new building under construction, a narrow path that led to the kitchen…nothing fancy. But as I entered the old wooden family kitchen hut, the whole atmosphere suddenly became unbelievably pleasant and welcoming. The sweet greetings from Mickey Lepcha (Kachyo’s niece), a warm pot of welcome tea, and a plate each of freshly made Khurukhu & Khuri (Lepcha delicacies), and the pretty sights of the Lik village, aside a hill of ribbon-like serpentine Lachen – Chungthang highway from the traditional dining room window immediately put us at captivating ease.
We took some time off to settle into our rooms and spent a relaxing afternoon. Mickey turned out to be a very nice conversationalist, providing us with many insights into the lives of the Lepchas of Dzongu. The uncle-niece team of Mingdup and Mickey, and their hospitality, were beginning to make us feel the Lepcha Homestay as our second home… on the first night itself!
The food that Mickey and Mingdup prepared in their kitchen, with flawless coordination, merry moods, laughing and talking, was just delish. The first night was turning out to be like being transported to some fairy-tale land, and being looked after by the fairies themselves.
The next morning, we woke up to a sunny day, greeted by the smiles and cheerfulness of the hosts. We decided to walk from Lingthem village to the Lingdem hot spring. Although Mingdup offered to make us a packed lunch for the day, I decided not to take it because I figured it would turn out cold anyway, and was banking on the local eatery for some hot tea and Maggi, which we had gotten used to on this tour. Nevertheless, he handed us a couple of oranges and guavas, handpicked from his garden, which I gladly put inside my day pack as we started out for the hike.
We began the hike, descending from Lingthem village to Passindang village, always walking along the gravelled path, and from Passindang to Lingdem village, along the mixed route of paved road and dirt road. Incidentally, this route was busy due to the river quarry on the Rongyong River, which ferried truckloads of sand and gravel to the construction sites. We detoured for a while to walk on the Mantam hanging bridge, which connects the villages of Tingvong and Lingzya. We walked like the locals, as if we were familiar with the path, stopping to drink from our water bottles, chatting up with the locals passing by, through the forests of chestnut trees, bamboo thickets, over the bridges, and pebbled village roads.
We also met some boisterous Lepcha youths in black overcoats, felt hats, and aviators, driving a Thar jeep, who gave us that Himalayan cowboys kind of vibe. Finally, after about 13 km of walking, we reached the Lingdem hot spring and soaked our now slightly-wearied bodies in the warm mineral-rich pool. As we headed back, I was about to regret not carrying packed lunches with us for the hike because the makeshift eateries near the hot spring were closed for the day due to a funeral in the village.
We drove back to our homestay well past 3 PM, and hungry. Mickey, who was also just back from her office duty, hurried to the kitchen to prepare warm tea, popcorn, and delicious rice porridge for us. The sense of urgency and the empathy displayed while preparing this meal spoke volumes about the hospitality of Lepcha Homestay.
Dinner, casual conversations, playful banters, and the lively atmosphere played through the second night in the hidden paradise.
On the third morning, as we gathered for breakfast in the kitchen, I noticed the sky was much clearer than yesterday, and literally ran to the rice fields above the homestay to test the mountain views. And lo and behold, there stood the Kongchenchu (a Lepcha term for Mt. Kanchenjunga / Mt. Khangchendzonga) in all its grandeur. I called Kurt & Monica, and the three of us hiked up the steps and fields to immerse ourselves in the blessed sight of Kongchenchu.
The rest of the day was spent in the company of Mickey and Mingdup, tending the kitchen garden, planting garlic cloves, enjoying a blissful day indeed!
We took an afternoon hike to the Lingthem Chophel Dargyeling Monastery, dedicated to Thyukung Munsolong, the great Lepcha spiritual leader and priest, who signed the ‘Blood Brotherhood’ Treaty with the Tibetan Khye Bumsa at Kabi Lungtshok around the 13th Century, A.D.
The third night followed, bringing down the curtain to the surreal, dreamlike experience at Mayal Lyang, a true hidden paradise, with its simple and effervescent people, inimitable hospitality, and delectable heritage cuisine.
Dzongu should be on the bucket list of every traveller looking to experience the exotic side of Sikkim.
Vishal Eli Chamling
2 Comments
Add CommentKachyo Lepcha
It's a wonderful discription of our Lepcha Homestay it means a lots to us. Thank you for trusting us and choosing Lepcha Homestay. Thank you once againVishal Eli Chamling
You are welcome Kachyo. We were also equally enamored by the hospitality shown to us by Mingdup and Mickey at Lepcha Homestay. I shall always cherish them and look forward to visiting you all again.