The Ladakh Escapades 1: Walking on the prismatic earth of the Sham Valley
Spectacular view from Mebtak La (3750 m)
Prologue
Three years ago, I had organized a tour in Darjeeling and Sikkim for Julia and Alexandra, childhood friends from Mannheim, Germany. Both working professionals, their passion for travelling brought them to the Himalayas this time. While Julia is a seasoned traveller and adventurer, having backpacked in India during her younger days, Alexandra is a comfort traveller, preferring to take a more relaxing approach to her holidays. I had a feeling that Julia wanted to introduce Alexandra to the adventurous side of travelling. Fortunately, Alexandra was up for it.
After 14 days of exploring Darjeeling and Sikkim, with a blend of hiking and village tours, it was apparent that both had fallen in love with the Himalayas, and their next trip to the mountains was already in discussion before the trip ended.
As their guide, one of the most stimulating moments during the trip was realising that Julia & Alex had saved up funds for about 11 years to travel to this part of the Himalayas! A fundamental lesson for all aspiring travellers to learn budgeting in order to facilitate your wanderlust.
By the time I saw them off at Bagdogra Airport, it was decided that the next destination would be Ladakh.
A year later, Julia WhatsApped me saying the savings were afoot, and last year we began to chalk out the plan for Ladakh trip. I drew up the itinerary and she did her own travel research on Ladakh. The final trip itinerary consisted of Sham Valley Trek, excursions to Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, and monasteries around Leh.
We wrapped up the trip program last December by booking the hotels and flights, and only arrival this May in Delhi was eagerly anticipated.
The Escapade
On May 23rd, Julia and Alex arrived by early morning flight from Delhi to Leh, and I arrived by road via Manali late in the evening, as I had my other reconnaissance tour in Himachal Pradesh.
When I went to meet them the next day, I was expecting Julia and Alex to be in a state of rest, following Ladakh tourism recommendation of mandatory acclimatization with limited physical activity for 48 hrs. after arrival in Leh. However, I was pleasantly taken aback to see them active and enthusiastic, and all ready to venture out in the city. Besides the jetlag from yesterday, they had already made themselves familiar with Leh city, having strolled there yesterday afternoon.
My Ladakhi friend, Dorjey Rafta, the owner of Extreme Adventures, and our local service provider, collected our documents for relevant RAP & PAP permits, and dropped Julia and Alex at Leh Market, while I went to get my regional tourist SIM card, as my Jio Postpaid didn’t work in Ladakh due to online registration of postpaid service.
Our team consisted of Achuk as the local guide for trek and Otsal as our driver for the whole tour. Both of them excellent individuals.
The Prismatic Earth: Sham Valley Trek
Let me warn you, right off the bat, that the Sham Valley Trek is not a “Baby Trek” that most internet searches claim it to be. Trekking in the highlands above 3500 m , and crossing mountain passes of about 3850 m, are no child’s play. One has to be properly acclimatized, and should have a good level of fitness to be able to trek in steep inclines.
Otsal drove us from Leh to Likir, and after visiting the Likir Monastery, we started the Sham Valley Trek. Our first stretch was from Likir to Yangthang village. An approximate walking distance of 10 km. It took us a little above 3 hrs to complete the hike. Achuk and Julia practically brisk-walked the route, while I took some time as I was still acclimatizing, and also recovering from my Achilles tendonities. It was quite windy at the two mountain passes of Phobe La (3580 m) and Chagatse La (3650 m), and I found myself alternating my windcheater hood at the passes, and baseball cap on the trails. Our stay in Yangthang was at the Murup Namgail Homestay, a simple but neat and tidy homestay run by Dolkar, a very good cook, and a pleasant host. Yangthang is a small village, therefore, the choices of accommodation are limited.
Small village of Yangthang with only about 10 – 12 houses
Next morning, after sumptuous breakfast prepared by Dolkar, we hiked to the village of Hemis Shukpachen, a comparatively larger village than Yangthang. The trail was fascinating, meandering through the village, with paths lined with bushes of sea buckthorn. Hiking the landscape of Ladakh can be a blessing in many ways. The rugged barren mountains with multi-hued facades of brown, ruby, amaranth, and ochre shades make you feel like you are walking on the mountains of gems. The green oasis-like villages of the Indus Valley, the clear blue skies, the simple and friendly Ladakhis that you meet on the way, all add up to the mystical experience when you are in the land of high passes. We covered an approximate distance of 12 km, in about 3.5 hrs.
Village of Hemis Shukpachen as seen from Tsermangchen La (3750 m)
Zinglo Residency, the homestay at Hemis Shukpachen, run by the generous host, Sandy, is certainly one of the best accommodations in Ladakh. Julia and Alex couldn’t stop talking about the pleasant stay here even days after the trek had ended. The terrace room has facilities at par with four star properties in the cities, including air humidifier and oxygenator, which are extremely helpful in high altitude areas of Ladakh.
On the last day of the trek we hiked from Hemis Shukpachen to Temisgam (Tingmosgang). Alex wasn’t able to hike with us in the last two trails due to a swollen foot, which made her unable to put on her hiking boots. Fortunately, her swollen foot had healed and was able to join us on the last stretch of the Sham Valley Trek. This trail is probably the best of the three days stretch, not that the first two aren’t. However, having acclimatized properly, I enjoyed this trail immensely, The last approach to the Mebtak La (3750 m) is extremely scenic, and somewhat dramatic, with an exposed narrow single-way path on the sides of the mountain. Acrophobics should avoid this trail.
With Julia & Alexandra enroute Temisgam
A brief photo stop at Mebtak La made us familiar with some hikers who were also enroute the trail. The Sham Valley is now also accessible by road, so some hikers were being picked up by their tour vehicle at the pass for their further journey.
We continued our hike downhill from Mebtak La, occasionally sighting yaks, blue sheep, and pheasants. Of the 11 km hike today, we trekked about 8 km, and drove the last 3 km to our accommodation, the lovely Namra Hotel in Temisgam.
Vishal Eli Chamling
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